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Pioneers in the Travel Blogosphere #2

Jun 102013

We are beyond excited to host this interesting interview with Kash Bhattacharya of BudgetTraveller, courtesy of Jeremy Head and P&O cruises. Enjoy!

A series produced in association with P&O cruises

Jeremy Head interviews: Kash Bhattacharya from BudgetTraveller.org

Travel blogging is moving mainstream – fast. Forget the weekend travel supplements, its bloggers who could well be the future of travel journalism. People like my interviewee this time: Kash Bhattacharya

Kash Bhattacharya has been travelling on a budget for the last 4 years, blogging about his adventures at BudgetTraveller.org. He has been featured in the New York Times, Guardian, Vanity Fair and National Geographic. In June, he’s launching a guide to Luxury Hostels in Europe and has helped develop award-winning campaigns like #BlogVille for the Emilia Romagna Tourism Board, #Blogmanay for Unique Events and Event Scotland and FilmTravellerCoteDAzur for the Cote D’Azur tourism board. You can also follow Kash on Twitter and Facebook.

- What got you into the idea of travelling and writing for a living?
I started my first travel blog, Europebudgetguide.com in the summer of 2009 after losing my job. Whilst working in a pub, a bookshop and doing media sales, starting the blog was like a form of therapy. I couldn’t afford to go on a holiday or see a psychologist. My blog helped me through those dark moments that summer when I had little money to socialise, watch a movie and buy decent food. It kept me sane, writing and reliving my old travel experiences. Having worked in publishing for nine years, I loved writing but had limited opportunities because my employers preferred me to focus on my sales skills. What started as a hobby, turned into a personal development programme. I was getting to grips with social networking, developing my writing skills – plus I managed to bring my background in publishing and media sales to use for my own publishing platform.

- What does it take to be a ‘travel blogger’?
It’s a very dynamic profession that is rapidly evolving. One that offers a lot of exciting opportunities. For me the best travel bloggers are those that tick the following boxes:
- They can identify new travel trends and be a source of inspiration . Being able to write coherently is important but more relevant is the ability to become influencers and share unique travel content in real-time to travelers.
- They’re passionate, keeping in touch with and sharing best practice in marketing, SEO and social media techniques.
- They can take a good photograph. Travel is a very visual experience. It’s really important that bloggers can take good photographs to accompany their blog posts. Plus with the rise in social networks like Pinterest and Instagram- mastering new trends like mobile photography is important.
- They can develop their own brand
For those who want to be in blogging for the long-term and make a living from it, this is crucial. Travel brands and tourist boards will be more keen to associate their brand with bloggers who are working to make their blogs sources of unique, specialized travel content. I am certainly no guru at branding but basics like good design are often overlooked by travel bloggers: having a clean professional logo that tells the story of your blog plus an intuitive, easy to read, well-designed content is a must.
- They know how to pitch
Knowing how to sell yourself and your ideas and having good networking skills is also essential. Sometimes what people buy is not the product but the person behind it.

- What’s the hardest thing about being a travel blogger?
The challenge of having a personal life outside of my blog. It is a privilege to travel to amazing places and meet some incredibly inspirational people but at the same time, the life of a travel blogger can lonely. I envy the couples who manage to combine their individual talents and love of travel to explore the world together and blog about their adventures. I don’t have much of a social life outside hanging out with fellow travel bloggers and it’s becoming difficult to maintain friendships from the world of pre-travel blogging.

- What’s been the most memorable experience and why?
Going to Rome in October last year for two weeks, a small project with HomeAway UK. I got to stay in two well-located, budget-friendly apartments in Rome. I got to live as a local. Rome is for the curious. I loved ditching the guidebook and roaming through its maze of narrow streets and discovering its century-old treasures. I walked for miles every day. The endless number of small and large piazzas in Rome are perfect for grabbing a Pizza al Taglio and watching the world go by. Under the guise of ‘research’ I religiously checked out a new gelataria almost every day. Rome is ice cream heaven.

- Which place or places do you still want to visit and why?
I love Italy and I haven’t yet explored the south of the country – regions like Calabria and Sicily. Outside Europe, I hope to discover more of South East Asia , mainly for the amazing diversity of street food. I also want to see more of India, my country of origin which for me has the best of everything – culture, food, beaches, palaces and mountains.

- What’s your top tip for making your money go further whilst you’re away?
Walk everywhere possible, especially in Europe. It saves you money on public transport and also is a great way of getting to know a city – plus it keeps you fit while on the road.

- What thing or things do you always pack when you go away and why?
I always carry my iPod which is the soundtrack to my life and travels. I also carry my Indian spices so whenever I am fed up of eating out, I can cook my favourite Indian dishes plus introduce friends and strangers to my cuisine. I always have a few good books to read thanks to my Kindle – perfect for those long hours of travel.

- What’s the craziest thing that has happened to you on the road?
Last week in Berlin! While meeting a friend in a bar, my iPhone 4s got robbed. We got distracted by an annoyingly persistent beggar. That’s when his accomplice from behind, nipped my iPhone from my pocket. A few minutes later the food arrived and in typical blogger style, I went to get my iPhone out to take a picture of the food and realized it had been stolen. Someone pointed out the direction the thieves had made their getaway in – so I ran like mad and after several guesses at junctions, I was amazed to spot them. Keeping my cool, I tailed them for the next two blocks. (Hours of watching Wallander, and 24 paying off finally!) Then at a busy junction I finally grabbed one of them and asked for my phone back. I had my older iPhone 3G (which had no simcard in it) cupped to my ear and made a big scene as if I was calling the police.
To my surprise he apologized sheepishly and – instead of a knife – he produced, my iPhone out of a sliding compartment in the bottom of his smelly trainers. I felt a surge of relief, amazement and at the same time pity more than rage. I asked him why. He just shrugged his arms and gave it back to me.

Thanks again to Jeremy Head, Kash Bhattacharya, and P&O Cruises for the insightful interview.

To our readers: we’re thinking of starting a new series on the blog with more interviews and stories from travel bloggers and digital nomads around the world. Who would be interested in reading more? We sure would!

Lantau Island’s Big Buddha: Is It Worth It?

Jun 012013

Lantau Island’s Big Buddha—Is it worth it?

Tian Tan Buddha, or simply the Big Buddha, is one of the world’s largest Buddhas as well as a popular tourist attraction in Hong Kong. Serenely nestled on the hills of Lantau Island, it also takes a bit of a time commitment and varying amounts of dough (not to mention hundreds of stairs) to access the Buddha’s smiling face.

We did make the trek out to visit the Buddha, and even got to wish him the happiest of birthdays while we were there. But many fellow travelers we met in Hong Kong expressed their disinterest in the statue, primarily because of the time involved to see the tourist attraction.

So was it worth it?

You’ll have to wait (we know you would never just skim down) to the end of the post to find out. But first, let’s talk practicalities.

Getting to the Big Buddha

To access the Big Buddha, you’ll first need to arrive at the Tung Chung MTR station. (We’ll mention this in another post, but do so via your Octopus Card. It’s a huge time and money saver, and it works on the bus too.) Once there, you can do one of two things:

1. Take bus No. 23 to Ngong Ping (via MTR exit B) If you mime Big Buddha actions, all the locals will direct you to the bus you need. Creativity points awarded. Be prepared for small roads, deep bends, and fast drivers.

Estimated time: 30-40 minutes one-way

Cost: HK $17.20 one way

2. Board the Ngong Ping 360 gondola/cable car. Excellent views of Hong Kong’s greener side, and the South China Sea.

Estimated Time: 25 minutes one-way

Cost: Standard Cabin: HK $94 one-way/ HK $135 round trip; Crystal Cabin: HK $149 one-way/ HK $213 round trip.

*Note: There is also a ferry to Mui Wo from the Star Ferry Terminal at Central. In Mui Wo you’ll have to take another bus to Ngong Ping. We’re not completely familiar with this route, and unable to offer prices or travel times.

We opted for the bus, primarily because the morning was so foggy that we could barely make out the hills just in front of us. Chances are there would have been no dazzling views of the China Sea stretching out before us. However, on a clear day, I do think the cable car would be worth the extra dip in your budget.

Upon arriving at Ngong Ping, you’re essentially in Big Buddha territory. Follow the signs, or the hazy site of the Big Buddha itself, and you’ll be at its base in no time.

The Big Buddha (located on Po Lin Monastery grounds) is open from 10:00am to 5:30pm. Entrance to the Buddha is free, although you will have to pay to access the exhibitions inside.

Climbing The Stairs

268 steps now separate you from the Big Buddha. While the majority of people huffing and puffing their way up will be tourists, it is quite likely you’ll also come across devote Buddhists who view the ascent as a pilgrimage. It’s a stunning site to see families dressed in traditional robes, bowing and kissing the ground upon each step so peacefully climbed. It made me feel a bit embarrassed for superficially complaining about the sweat beads beginning to form upon my forehead.

Circling the Buddha

Built of bronze and weighing in at 250 tons, the Buddha definitely makes a statement. It was built to symbolize the stability of Hong Kong, but that’s not where it stops: each feature of the Buddha is in fact symbolic. Whether it’s the pearl and conch hair representing wisdom; the right hand in the mudra of compassion from sufferings; the left hand fulfilling wishes and granting blessings to all; or the cross-legged lotus-seat representing purity—each element of design means something deep, virtuous and spiritual. The Po Lin Monastery website is full of engaging and truly incredible details about the building and symbolization of the Big Buddha. We highly recommend checking it out if a trip to the Buddha is in your future.

After the Buddha

After taking in the lush surroundings of Lantau Island, and the Buddha itself, a few options present themselves. First, head to the Po Lin Monastery for a vegetarian lunch (they have surprisingly delicious lotus jellies). You can then opt to spend an afternoon hiking the Tung Chung Loop back to the bottom of the hill, or ascend even higher to Lantau Peak! Additionally, spend time leisurely sipping tea at the Linong Tea House, buy souvenirs at Ngong Ping Village (quite a tourist trap in our opinion), or explore the mountains and beaches of Lantau Island.

We were fortunate to time our visit to the Buddha with his birthday, which meant there were quite a few activities going on around the monastery grounds. In between watching children proffer incense and devout Buddhists present their offerings, we took part in a free lunch and numerous performances (with some pretty baller kung fu ninja monks-the technical term) all to celebrate the enlightened one’s birthday.

So do we recommend it?

Yes. But it’s not an absolute, must-see, going to really regret it if I don’t kinda thing. If you happen to be in Hong Kong on one of its rare sunny days, then we would say the views on the gondola and surrounding the Buddha are reward enough. Given more time, we would have been interested in hiking and exploring more of Lantau Island as well. The Big Buddha in itself is quite impressive, but it is more of an experience to observe the spiritual activities surrounding it. If you have previously experienced a Buddhist culture, then the Tian Tan statue might not blow you away; it can be quite touristy. Again, the weather makes all the difference—don’t bother making the trek through haze or storms.

The Lovebirds’ Verdict: Go for the surrounding views and photo-ops. Don’t necessarily visit for the Buddha itself, or on a day with poor weather conditions.

We only spent half a day at the Big Buddha, so we want to hear your thoughts. Have you been? Would you recommend it?

You’re Invited To Celebrate Our Anniversary…In Hong Kong!

May 152013

We’re two years old today!

Okay, it’s just our marriage that is two years old.

And it’s not actually today, it’s May 20^th.

But we’re calling it close enough since we started celebrating when we flew into Hong Kong at the crack of dawn this morning. Don’t worry. We’re not going to ramble on about how these have been the happiest two years of our lives or how we grow more in love everyday or even how we’re so lucky to be living our dreams together. Although we totally could share those things with you, we figured it be better to save the lovey-dovey stuff for ourselves. Or maybe our facebook statuses just to piss people off.

Still, it is our anniversary. And the only reason why we started this blog in the first place was for a site to share our honeymoon adventure. We never imagined A Cruising Couple would survive this long, change so much. And what’s even more exciting is that we’re not planning on stepping away from the blogging scene any time soon. Exciting for us at least. You can make your own call on that one.

So we want to say thank you for sticking with us. If you’re reading this now and you can remember those first blog posts we pumped out—wow. It’s quite amazing you’ve stayed along for the ride. And if you’re only now stopping by for the first time, we hope you’ll come back again. We appreciate all of you more than you might realize. Once again, thank you. You rock.

Okay, we promised we wouldn’t get lovey-dovey, so let’s switch gears. Last year we were so fortunate to celebrate our one-year anniversary basking in the sun in the Philippines. We split our time between the Amorita Resort in Bohol and scuba diving through scenes taken straight from ‘Finding Nemo’ at Apo Island. We also saw these guys:

I was beyond stoked. Aren’t they seriously the cutest critters ever?

As much as we love our tropical getaways, we’ve also got a soft place for concrete jungles. And roulette. Hong Kong and Macau easily won the bid for this year’s anniversary destination. World-class dining, top-tier casinos, Portuguese history, and great shopping are just a few of the reasons why we can’t wait to start exploring. But other than our Hong Kong Foodie Tour (which we are drooling over just thinking about) we’ve been a bit too busy to make any other plans for our time here.

It’s kind of nice not having any idea what we’ll be getting ourselves into, but we don’t want to miss out on the best of Hong Kong either.

So here’s your invitation to be a part of our trip: If you happen to have any secrets about the best spot to take snapshots of the skyline or your favorite cocktail venue that won’t break the bank, pretty please let’s hear it in the comments! Really, any Hong Kong tips would be amazing.

Did we mention that you guys are awesome?

Photo Friday | You Can’t Spell Gorgeous without Gorge | Taroko Gorge, Taiwan

May 102013

It’s a fact: you can’t spell gorgeous without gorge. And Taroko Gorge certainly fits the bill. This is the Shakadang Trail; it’s the first path you’ll come across after entering the national park. I’m not sure what they put in that water but it is a serious hue of aqua. Also, I may have spent our entire walk yelling “mucho azul aguaaaa”, but that’s not important. Be sure to check out our full post about Taroko Gorge for more photos and info.

Wandering the Nostalgic Streets of Jiufen

Apr 172013

There are lots of beautiful places in Taiwan. But more often than not, if a tour bus can access it, there will be oodles of people there. It’s inevitable. And although it still drives me crazy when I’m being elbowed incessantly while trying to get my Lantern Festival on, or being pushed around while snapping pictures at a 3D art exhibit, it doesn’t bother me nearly as much as it used to. Well, that is until we buy our train tickets ten days early and STILL don’t get a seat because it’s a ‘national holiday’. I swear there is some sort of anti-foreigner train seat rule.

3D art

Often the constant hordes of people can take a bit out of a place. What might have been a charming and delightful gem becomes just another tourist trap with over-priced, over-rated food. Luckily, there are still a few places we’ve found that have managed to retain their authenticity. One of them is Jiufen.

Old Street, Jiufen, Taiwan

Jiufen is a small village on the Northeast coast of Taiwan, with commanding views of the Pacific Ocean and surrounding mountains. The name ‘Jiufen’ directly translates into ‘nine portions’, and is said to originate from the nine families that first made up the town and would always order nine portions of supplies. However, Jiufen wasn’t diminutive for long; when someone struck gold in the late 1800s, it quickly developed into a gold mining town, along with nearby Jinguashi.

The gold mining has long disappeared and in its place left an enchanting, mystical town. Small, stone alleyways zigzag up and down the mountain, beckoning you to leave the main thoroughfares behind. Traditional red Chinese lanterns line the streets, invoking the feeling that you have stepped back in time. And on a beautiful day, stunning views of the Northeast Coast stretch out all around you.

Jiufen, Taiwan

Not exactly a beautiful day.

Most of the action—or at least what draws the weekenders from Taipei—is on Jiufen Old Street. Food stalls serving up taro balls, dumplings, and mochi (gelatinous deserts) crowd the perimeter, contesting with numerous souvenir and art shops for customers. Of particular note, there is an awesome hole-in-the-wall that sells hand-painted scrolls for exceptional value. However, other than that, we prefer to leave the Old Street behind in search for quieter, more relaxed meandering of the small town roads.

In addition to the aimless wandering and nostalgic atmosphere, there are also numerous traditional teahouses, which I absolutely adore. The two most popular ones are the Jiufen Tea House and the Ah Mei Tea House. The Jiufen Tea House is decorated exquisitely, with traditional Chinese décor, oil paintings, and an art gallery with large selection of ceramic teapots. The Ah Mei Tea House is just as lovely as the Jiufen Tea House, but in a more laid-back way. It is famed for being the inspiration behind Hayao Miyazaki’s movie Spirited Away, which I guess is a pretty popular animated film in Asia. We ended up choosing the latter venue, as it was the first teahouse we stumbled upon.

Tea House, Jiufen, Taiwan

Dan and I aren’t tea snobs by any means. In fact, we always have to ask the waitress numerous times to help us sort the gadgets and gizmos laid out before us, meant to assist in the tea drinking process. But regardless of our incompetence, we thoroughly enjoy the traditional process of drinking Chinese tea. The Ah Mei Tea House specializes in Oolong tea, so naturally that’s what we chose. Although we aren’t enough of an expertise to comment on the value of the tea, it tasted top-notch to us, and was certainly priced accordingly.

I just saw the bill.

Drinking Chinese tea is a slow, thoughtful, and social experience. Before one can even think about tasting the delicate leaves, the cups must be doused with warm water; the leaves must be briefly rinsed and soaked; the aroma must be wafted from the smelling cup. And then, finally, after the proper etiquette ahs been displayed and anticipation built up, the doll-sized teacups can deliver the long awaited reward.

Tea leaves before (left) and after.

TEA TIME!

This process is repeated again and again, although the initial few steps can be left out after the sipping and savoring has begun. Often it takes hours to finish a batch of tea, although this isn’t a hard thing when relaxing and enjoying the commanding view Jiufen offers. Alternatively, most teahouses will package your remaining tealeaves in adorable doggy bags to go.

Jiufen just emanates of history and tradition. Of a time before apartment buildings rose higher and department stores expanded wider. It’s the reason why so many locals flock there on the weekend. It’s why numerous movies have found inspiration from its winding streets. And it’s why I can tolerate sharing a bit of my highly revered elbow space.

Taiwan Calla Lily Festival: Frolicking Permitted

Apr 012013

Every spring, the small town of Jhuzihu is overcome by white, delicate Calla lilies, as field after field bursts into nearly two million blooms.

The annual Calla Lily Festival attracts families and lovers from all around Taiwan, producing a serene and idyllic setting. Children eagerly bounce through the fields; ladies point out their favorite blossoms for their boyfriends to fetch; small Taiwanese grandmas gossip while elbowing at strangers to access the prime flowers first.

Calla lilies are one of my favorite flowers, and Dan and I sported the idea of having them at our wedding until we realized the price was outrageous, going for US$3-5 per stem. That’s, like, 10x as much as picking your own in Jhuzihu, where one stem goes for a mere NT$10! But no matter the price tag, when you get the chance to go frolicking through fields of Calla lilies there’s just no way to pass it up.

The scenery was truly stunning. As per usual, the weather didn’t really want to cooperate with us; as soon as we arrived at Jhuzihu, the tenacious cloud hovering over Taiwan descended, draping the surrounding mountains in fog. This actually added a bit of romance and mystique though, and for once I didn’t mind that the sun was hiding itself.

The Calla Lily Festival is definitely a must-see if you find yourself in Taiwan during March or April. To access the blooming fields, first head to Yangmingshan National Park. From here, it’s easy to find shuttle buses to Jhuzihu. If you find yourself lost or confused, chances are you will see loads of people with bundles of Calla lilies in their arms—they will eagerly help direct you to the shuttles. After that, a fifteen-minute trip will drop you in the middle of the Calla lily fields. Now you just need to get picking!

The Ultimate Guide to Taiwan’s Hottest Attraction

Mar 252013

I’m not really a huge fan of hot springs. I mean, I like them enough. They’re relaxing and rejuvenating and don’t require any physical exertion. It’s mostly that I can’t manage to stay in them longer than five minutes because of the sweat that begins to pour down my face, coupling with the steam rising off the water, that leaves me with dried-out, sticky contacts.

That being said, Dan and I just got back from a hot spring hotel in Central Taiwan, and I loved it—blurry vision and all. It probably helped that we had a private hot spring bath in our room, overlooking the adjacent valley and mountains. And I must admit, even if I don’t normally get excited about hot springs, I always feel amazing afterwards. In Asia, hot springs are believed to raise energy levels while possibly treating chronic fatigue, eczema and arthritis—a pretty good reason to give the popular Taiwanese pastime a go.

There are two main things to remember before jumping right into the hot springs:

1) If hot spring baths are separated by gender, you’re expected to bathe nude. I was bit worried it would be totally awkward sporting by birthday suit with a bunch of old Taiwanese women, but it’s not actually that bad. Plus, these hot springs are typically a bit nicer, with various showerheads, more variety in water temperature, steam rooms, and no obnoxious children splashing sulfur water in your face.

2) You must wear a shower cap before entering the hot springs. Sometimes these will be provided, other times you are expected to bring your own.

Beyond that, just follow common sense. Don’t bathe if you have any health risks, don’t stay in the hot springs too long, don’t drink alcohol while immersed in scalding hot water, etc.

With the ring of fire rumbling just below Taiwan’s seaboard, there is plenty of lava-heated spring water to go around. Hot springs range from wild and natural baths in the mountains to commercialized spas and resorts. Here are a few of the ones we’ve tried and can recommend:

Beitou

The hot springs at Beitou are arguably the most frequented by tourists in Taiwan, and easily accessible off the New Beitou MRT stop (from Taipei). Beitou’s history of developed hot springs dates back to the early 1900s and the Japanese era. Today, public and private hot springs are abundant, and easily found via a quick stroll through the area. English signs pave the way.

Chingchuan

Located in a small aboriginal village in Hsinchu County, these hot springs are famed for being some of the best in all of Taiwan due to their soft mineral water. We love the rustic feeling emanating from the town, and the beautiful mountain views from the hot springs. After your revitalizing soak, go for a stroll and meet some Atayal people, who will be more than happy to chat with you, regardless of Chinese proficiency.

Dragon Valley (Taichung County)

It takes a lot of work to get here, but the seclusion is well worth the effort. Dragon Valley is about a two-hour bus ride from the nearest train station at Fengyuan, just north of Taichung. It has a similar vibe to Chingchuan due to its location deep in mountain country, which is a welcome relief from the overly congested urbanization that plagues much of Taiwan. With a few sizeable resorts to choose from, including the immense Dragon Valley Resort and Paradise, you’ll be sweating off stress in no time. When you’ve had all you can take of the purifying waters, head down the public hot spring trail to “the ditch”. Here you’ll find a combination of 3 ankle-deep foot-cleansing ponds. Only this time, it’s not the water that’s special; it’s the fish. These hungry little tickle-monsters bite the dead skin right off your feet. Yummy!

Jiaoshi

Bordering Yilan on the east coast, Jioashi has a high concentration of hot spring hotels, perfect for restoring your wave-beaten body after a long day of surfing. However, if you don’t have the time or the budget to commit to one of these hotels, there are also public and private baths available at a reasonable hourly rate. Unfortunately, some of the private baths here tend to be enclosed by sheet metal, leaving something to be desired in terms of scenery.

While these are the hot spring areas we have visited, there are still over 150 other hot springs all across Taiwan! A map with some of the more popular destinations can be found here.

Prices are hugely variable, ranging from NT$150 for public baths to NT$6000 for five star hot spring hotels (including accommodation). Just be sure to take a peek at the hot springs before paying, as some offer better value than others. It’s never fun to end up squashed in a luke-warm pool with a hundred other people.

We’re especially excited to be visiting Green Island in the next couple weeks, after a three-day cycling trip down the East Coast. (Which, by the way, should be interesting seeing as neither of us has ever taken any sort of cycling trip at all.) Green Island boasts one of the only salt water hot springs in the world. We’ll keep you posted on how it ranks compared to these!

Do you love hot springs as much as the Taiwanese do? Have you ever been to a salt water hot spring? Where’s your favorite hot spring in Taiwan? Don’t forget to leave a comment below!

The Gili Islands: A guide to the magical stepping stones of Lombok

Mar 072013

The Gili Islands are known for being some of the most beautiful islands in Indonesia, having managed to preserve their pristine beaches and authenticity despite growing tourism to Bali and Lombok. And by authenticity, I mean the only form of land transportation is horse carriage or bicycle! Ah-mazing, especially after living in Taiwan where I’m constantly trying to avoid collisions with incompetent scooter drivers. There’s a reason why the three islands have such a good rap—with white sand beaches, amazing snorkeling and diving, and easy accessibility, they really are a must for any Bali/Lombok visitor.

One awesome thing about the Gili Islands is that each island caters to a different kind of tourist, promising a match for any traveler personality.

Gili Trawagan is the party island, and has morphed into a Kuta wannabe. It’s easy to get your dance moves on til sunrise, or rent a boat and drink the night away under the stars. Gili T is the largest and most developed of the three islands, and has many five star resorts, reliable dive shops, and classy restaurants. The beaches are still quite nice-not as secluded as some you might find on the other Gili Islands but still rather clean despite the hung-over foreigners that dot the sand here and there. Gili T is perfect if you are traveling with a group of friends, or if you want a lot of options in terms of things to do. Also, if you need a doctor for any reason, Gili T has a great 24-hour clinic with English speaking doctor. Unfortunately I speak from first hand experience and a 103-degree fever. Yeah. Not fun. Other than our time at the clinic, we only spent a brief afternoon on Gili T to follow the snorkeling and biking route explained in the Frommer’s Bali Guide Book. (We wouldn’t recommend this route to others, as the biking is primarily over sand and the snorkeling only average.) In addition to snorkeling, scuba is one of the main attractions across all three islands. Dive shops are extremely popular on Gili T, but prices are fixed across the Gilis.

Gili Air is the middle island in terms of size and development. We didn’t get the chance to check it out firsthand, but it seemed like a popular choice with travelers looking for a toned down Gili T. All we can say is we’ve only heard good things. It’s also the closest to mainland Lombok, making it an easy day trip.

Gili Meno is the honeymoon island, and naturally where we decided to settle down for a couple of days. We’re suckers for all things mushy and romantic, so how could we possibly say no to candlelit dinners on secluded beaches? It is definitely the smallest and least developed of the three Gilis—there isn’t any fresh water on the island, and you can circumnavigate the whole thing by foot in an hour! Not quite as remote as staying on a personal island, but pretty darn close. We understand why honeymooners would choose Gili Meno; it’s easy to spend hours relaxing under your private beach gazebo, sipping on cocktails and watching the gentle waves lap across the sand, all the while without another soul passing by. Other than the lovely waiter bringing you your Mai Tai, of course. Although basic, Gili Meno has everything you need: unspoiled white sand beaches, stunning snorkeling (with the opportunities to see lots of turtles), and decent beach warungs serving everything from burgers to nasi campur (fried rice) to fresh fish. And just in case you didn’t get enough sunsets on the rest of your Bali trip, you can rest assured-they’re incredible here too.

Accommodation on Gili Meno is great, with lots of different options. If you are actually honeymooning, look no further than the MAHAMAYA Boutique Resort. It’s beautiful, and we couldn’t help but feel a bit envious every time we passed by. Butttt unfortunately our pockets don’t run that deep. If you’re a traveling couple on a budget like us, than Meno Dream is for you. We accidentally stumbled upon it when we arrived, and immediately fell in love. Consisting of 5 bungalows, Meno Dream is well designed, with boutique rooms, comfy beds, and a well-manicured garden. It does get a little hot at night in the rooms with no A/C, but the adorable outdoor shower compensates. What really sets Meno Dream apart from the rest is the hosts, Bernie and Made. Not only did they ensure we were comfortable, they made us feel as though we were their good friends whom they’d known for ages. Bernie and Made can help you with any information you need, and will cook up some of the best food you’ll eat during your entirety in Bali. Trust me—eat the gnocchi. It’s mind blowing. The only hesitation some might have is that Gili Meno isn’t beachfront. But don’t let that change your mind—the five-minute walk to the beach is easy and quite enjoyable provided you don’t have a fear of cows. They like to block the path and just stare at you, mindlessly swatting at the swarms of flies across their back. I think they’re harmless… On a sidenote, Meno Dream didn’t compensate us to say any of this. We just loved them that much!

Transportation to the Gili Islands is available from either Bali or Lombok.

If coming from Bali, you will have no trouble arranging your transfers as everyone wants to sell you their super-discounted-one-time-only ferry tickets. Definitely negotiate. Prices will vary depending upon where you are coming from in Bali, but most fast boats depart from Padangbai. Once in Padangbai, prices vary depending upon operator. Often you will initially be told around $60, but most people don’t end up paying more than $35, if they’re willing to book ahead and don’t mind a bit of bargaining. Total travel time is about 2 hours. If you are really on a budget, the slow ferry is also an option; however, it’s definitely not desirable as travel time is 8 hours, and list ticket price is about $30. Finally, travelers can also choose to hire a local fisherman from the east coast of Bali to take them over. Prices should range between $20-$30, and trip time is around 3 hours. We arranged our transportation from Ubud, or else the latter would have been our preferred method.

Travel between the Gilis and Lombok is quicker and cheaper. The public ferry costs a mere $1 and takes around 40 minutes. Be sure to check the schedule ahead of time as often the ferries only shuttle people twice a day. Private charters can also be hired should you miss the public ferry, but the cost will be around $20-$25.

Travelling as a couple is always rewarding, but that doesn’t mean it’s always easy. If you’re looking for a place to throw the backpacks down and flirt with your significant other, then look no further than the Gili’s. Especially Gili Meno, where romancing is made easy.

Ubud, Bali: More than just ‘Eat, Pray, Love’

Feb 192013

We were sitting at breakfast in the middle of who-knows-where-Java, drenched to the bone and devouring our glamorous breakfast of plain toast and Nescafe after a failed attempt at climbing Mt. Bromo. (Well, in all fairness, we succeeded in waking up at 4am and climbing to the viewpoint to see the sunrise. It was the constant downpour—aka lack of seeing anything—that constituted as failure.) A couple of minutes into our breakfast of champions, a retro British gal (also returning from the not so epic Bromo quest) asked to join us as she awaited her next transport. Our conversation soon arrived at the generic, travelers meeting other travelers questionnaire, somewhat reminiscent of freshman year of college. After covering the basics of “Where are you from?”, “How long are you here?” and “Is this going to be a long term, clingy friendship kind-of thing? Cuz I can’t tell if you’re annoying quite yet.”, our chatting soon turned to Ubud. Our new friend had just spent a month practicing yoga there, and I was intrigued to find out if it lived up to all the hype it receives. After all, I kept hearing Ubud was supposedly the one place I just had to visit while in Bali. Like finding out your favorite male celebrity is actually only attracted to other men, her description more than turned me off:

“Well, actually, it’s quite Eat, Pray, Love at the moment. A lot of middle aged American women soul searching and practicing bunny yoga. But I still loved it. Everyone does.”

Ughhhhhhh. I inwardly groaned for about five minutes, thinking back to how much I didn’t like the book Eat, Pray, Love. And then I spent about twenty minutes thinking about what bunny yoga might be, and how I probably fit the description to a tee. Don’t get me wrong. I was still excited to see the cultural heart of Bali, nestled amongst jungle and rice terraces. And there must be a reason why artists have been flocking to Ubud from around the world for nearly half a century. I guess I just wasn’t really expecting to be blown away by it anymore.

But of course, it’s always the ones you don’t expect that leave the most memorable impression. I immediately fell in love with Ubud, and before we had even departed I was conspiring all the ways in which we could return to the city for a longer period of time.

I don’t know why I felt such a connection with Ubud. I just did. And although I’m not the first or even five hundredth person to comment on the spiritual, rejuvenating effect the city can have, it’s still there. In the beautiful serenity of the rice terraces and Balinese countryside. In the practice of traditional dance and the fine arts. In the quaint stone pavements that guide your feet past lush gardens and temple walls.

And while yes, you can buy Eat, Pray, Love trinkets in the souvenir shops and network with expats at expensive yoga classes, it remains an inspiring and beautiful Mecca that just kind of naturally leads to self reflection. One that I’m hoping we’ll return to very soon.

View from our Homestay apartment.

Homestay Sunset

Holy Spring Water Temple

Holy Water Blessings

Ubud Village Children

Statue Offerings

Strolling With Our Host

Rise of the Apes

Barong Dance

Balinese Dance

Enjoy the show.

Legong Dance

Yoga Barn

We were there!!!

Mount Batur

Suara Ombak Homestay: Accommodation Review

Feb 162013

‘Off the beaten path’ travel is all the rage right now. It seems every twenty-something backpacker is claiming you should throw the guidebook out the window, leave your itinerary at home, and just surrender yourself to all the wonders of travel that will just miraculously fall into your lap. And obviously, all of it will be epic. Museums? Not original enough. Arts and music performances? Nope, too many foreigners. The first coffee shop in the city? Over-priced with long lines.

I sort of agree with this idea of travel. Yes, you can miss out on a lot if you’re stuck to a detailed travel plan that doesn’t leave room for spontaneous destinations and adventures. You never know who you will meet that might invite you to their great-grandmother’s house to share a cup of tea and impart on you all the richness of their history. However, more than likely this isn’t going to happen every time you venture somewhere new, and one can also miss out on a lot that the culture has to offer if they don’t do any prior research on the destination at hand. All too often I meet fellow travelers with the mindset that anything touristy is off limits. But in the end, they spend the majority of their time not really doing anything at all–I even met one girl that didn’t want to get out of the car on a countryside tour because she saw other tourists around. Well, sorry, but tourists normally go to a place because there is something worth seeing. Of course, being glued to their iphone and chugging beers always seems to be perfectly acceptable.

Obviously, the important thing here is balance. That’s why we try to avoid places like Kuta but will still sign up for a tour to hike down a volcano. But before I continue to digress too much, the reason why I say all this is because there is one thing I absolutely always research before traveling: accommodation.

While I won’t always make reservations, I like to know what my sleeping options are. Perhaps it’s because I have spent the night in too many dingy hostels and loud airports. Or maybe it has a lot to do with the fact that Dan and I are married, and sharing a room with a bunch of other college kids just doesn’t have much appeal anymore. Regardless, it’s really important to me where I am crashing down for the night. If couchsurfers aren’t available, than Dan and I want the most bang for our buck.

This method has worked really well for us, and we stayed at some amazing places in Bali and Lombok. One that was particularly memorable was Suara Ombak.

Suara Ombak cottages are nestled on a hill overlooking Bingin Beach. With only five rooms to choose from in a bit of a secluded location, Suara Ombak is perfect for those looking to exchange a mainstream hotel for an authentic and private Balinese home-style experience. The rooms are a bit rustic and you won’t receive many of the luxuries that might be available at similarly priced establishments; however, you will find the simplicity and beauty that was Bali before the hordes of tourists made claims to the island.

Suara Ombak is just a three-minute walk down the cliff to the secluded Bingin Beach, where white sand, good surf, and a few small warungs await—the perfect location to relax with a beer without being harassed to get a mani/pedi. If you do want to venture out, Suara Ombak is only a couple minutes via scooter from all the best beaches and surf spots of the Bukit Peninsula.

When hunger strikes, there are lots of great restaurants on the main road, including Mexican, Organic, Thai and Italian. However, we recommend eating at least one meal at Suara Ombak, where the chef cooks amazing and authentic Indonesian cuisine. We had some of the best Nasi Campur of our entire trip here.

While the location and simplicity of Suara Ombak add to its rustic appeal, what really sets it apart is the view. We highly recommend staying in the Birdhouse or Captain’s Quarters, which offer private, panoramic views of the Indian Ocean, crashing against the lofty cliffs of the Bukit Peninsula. All from the comfort of your bed. Talk about romantic!

The owner, Rob, is very friendly and easy to communicate with prior to arrival. For questions, prices, and recommendations, check out his website here. Just don’t be like us and only reserve two nights. Trust us, you’ll want to stay longer.