Taiwan » A Cruising Couple

Shopping at Wufenpu in Taipei: What’s the Deal?

May 132013

I get ridiculously proud of myself when I score a good deal shopping. I know I shouldn’t be telling everyone that my designer dress was actually on super-clearance due to a defect in the zipper, but I can’t help it. If I bought that $80 dress for a whopping ten bucks, you can bet I’m going to tell you about it. With probably more excitement than is socially acceptable.

Shopping in Taiwan gives me similar thrills. Racks of extremely cheap clothing are everywhere, and it takes almost all my self-control to tell myself I don’t really need another sweatshirt with college logo I’ve never heard of—even if it is a super cute hoodie for only $4. Granted, a lot of the fashion here isn’t really me. I like to think I’m quite girly, but even I have to set up some barriers against all the lace and hearts and baby shades of pink that proliferate. Although as I sit here I’m donning a shirt of a baby giraffe wearing a bow tie. Not so sure what that has to say about my taste in fashion after two years of living in Asia…

It’s easy to shop in Taiwan. Markets are everywhere, and virtually all of them will have racks of clothes set out to tempt you while purchasing your bubble milk tea. Heck, there’s even a cheap jewelry/purse rack at my favorite dumpling shop! But still, there’s one place that rises above the rest. It’s the place all those other inexpensive street vendors buy their products from. It’s a place called Wufenpu.

Located in Taipei, Wufenpu consists of over 100 wholesale clothing shops. You can literally find anything here, including purses, belts, women’s clothing, men’s clothing, baby clothing, puppy clothing (seriously), jewelry and shoes.

Wufenpu is as inexpensive as it gets in Taiwan, and all of my proudest purchases have come from here. Unfortunately it’s not the easiest place to navigate, and I’ve definitely picked up some treasure-hunting tips along the way.

1. Bargain

I know, they’re telling you the price is only $6 and that’s ridiculously cheap already. But trust me, you can get it for less, and in most cases they are expecting you to offer a counter price.

2. Be Ready To Do Some Diggin’

For every good find at Wufenpu, you’ll have to rummage through about 100 pieces of crap. I seriously have no idea why anyone would need leopard-print-faux-leather leggings or neon-orange-and-green-polka-dotted dresses, but I guess there must be a market for that sort of thing. I promise, there’s more hiding in the streets of Wufenpu than first meets the eye.

3. You Can’t Try Clothes On

This is the only thing about Wufenpu that really irritates me, although I’m sure it’s much better this way for our bank account. I don’t have one of those figures that can pull off anything, so I only make ‘safe’ purchases. This has worked fairly well for me, especially because I typically spend around $5 on each item of clothing I purchase; if it doesn’t work out, it’s not the end of the world. Do know in advance, even if it’s as simple as a jacket, they won’t let you try it on over your clothing.

4. Follow the Crowds

I’m not quite up to date with the latest Korean trends, but Taiwanese people are. If you see a massive crowd of people elbowing at each other in a doorway, flinging wayward clothes over their shoulders, ignoring anything else around them, you’ve struck gold. Figure out a way to join the troops and you’ll be well on your way to scoring designer Korean labels for a fraction of the price. I’m still working at my nudging tactics.

5. Avoid Anywhere With Air-Conditioning

If they can afford air-conditioning, you can expect to pay more. Unfortunately these shops tend to be more like boutiques, with higher-quality and better-designed clothing. I unwillingly gravitate to them, and sometimes I splurge a bit if I really think I’m going to fall in love with the item later (you still can’t try anything on here). Prices will typically range from $30-$100, not bad until you remember the price tag on your other purchases.

Even if you’re not a ‘big shopper’, I still recommend Wufenpu to travelers in Taiwan. There’s just something so unique about it. The scooters buzzing down the alleyways of pedestrians; the Chinese pop-music blaring from loud speakers; the authentic Taiwanese snacks lining the perimeter—it all comes together to accessorize the already very Taiwanese accessories available for purchase. And even if you don’t buy those glittery blue leggings that come up to your head, you’ll certainly remember them for awhile.

Best way find Wufenpu: Take the Tapei MRT to Houshanpi Station. Walk straight from Exit 1 to the intersection of Zhongpo North Rd and Yongji Rd.

What’s your favorite place to bargain shop? Have you ever snagged any unforgettable deals?

Photo Friday | You Can’t Spell Gorgeous without Gorge | Taroko Gorge, Taiwan

May 102013

It’s a fact: you can’t spell gorgeous without gorge. And Taroko Gorge certainly fits the bill. This is the Shakadang Trail; it’s the first path you’ll come across after entering the national park. I’m not sure what they put in that water but it is a serious hue of aqua. Also, I may have spent our entire walk yelling “mucho azul aguaaaa”, but that’s not important. Be sure to check out our full post about Taroko Gorge for more photos and info.

From Tutus to Toilets: A Look into Taipei’s Theme Restaurants

May 062013

White and fluffy purse-sized pups. Bedazzled fingernails, t-shirts and jean pockets. Pigtails and the color pink. The name Candy.

It’s all about the cute, or ‘ke ai’, in Taiwan.

The cute factor is more than just fashion though; it extends into just about every realm of life, including restaurants.

You mean food can be cute? Absolutely—although it’s not really the food as much as the general ambience that is essential. We’re talking theme restaurants here, and Taipei is home to some of the cutest ones around. Whether you prefer a tutu or toilet, Taipei’s got the eateries you need.

Hello Kitty Sweets

In a country that operates Eva Air’s signature Hello Kitty themed airplane, it’s only natural you’re going to find a Hello Kitty themed restaurant too. Hello Kitty Sweets was much smaller then we initially expected, and we found the décor to be surprisingly tolerable. A massive Hello Kitty face decorates the exterior, while the inside is decorated in baby shades of white and pink, chandeliers, and kitty cuteness everywhere. Oh, and bows, bows, bows! We half expected the waitresses to sport cat ears, but sadly their costume called a quits after the pink ruffled skirts.

It can be quite pricy to eat in the restaurant; expect to pay for the Hello Kitty food design, not the food quality itself. We chose to sample a small desert, which was surprisingly good and still came with Hello Kitty’s face molded into chocolate form.

Location: Address: 90, Da-an Rd Sec 1, Taipei City

Phone Number: (02) 2711-1132

Barbie Café

I loved my Barbies just as much as any other little girl. My collection included a three story Barbie house and the entire cast to the Wizard of Oz. But even for me, this restaurant is a little bit much. It’s the first Barbie restaurant in the world, and the owners really tried to set the standard high by spending $1.7 million USD on the place. It basically looks like someone vomited pink and magenta on every square inch of the café. Tutus adorn the chairs; Barbie’s face is blown up to cosmic proportions; the waitresses don tiaras while the waiters wear suits. And of course, there’s a life size Barbie box so you get the perfect snapshot.

You would think this would be a little girl’s dream, but it’s actually quite the opposite. We only saw a handful of children, although the place was packed with young men and women obviously out on romantic dates.

As if Barbie didn’t already get harped on enough for promoting unrealistic expectations about body image, this restaurant pushes the limits even farther. The menu was designed by a nutritionist, and lists the calories for each Barbie-themed food choice available. I guess they assume you might lose a bit of your appetite while staring at replicas of Barbie’s non-existent waistline while you eat. Perhaps it’s a good thing we didn’t see too many young girls inside…

We chose to take some pictures, hold back our giggles at the couples gazing into each other’s eyes, and then move on.

Location: Barbie Café, 2F, 128, Section 4, Zhongxiao East Road, Taipei City

Reservation Recommended

A380

Have a seat and prepare for takeoff. This restaurant actually looks quite reminiscent of a plane, although the seats here offer better leg space. Airplane windows, reclining chairs, personal TVs, and waitresses that double for stewardesses all combine to set the scene. Of course Sponge Bob also commands a huge presence, because, I mean, he totally flies… Unfortunately A380 is located on the same floor as the baby section of the Mitsukoshi department store, which means that most of the diners are the same people toting around their newborns in strollers. When we stopped in there were literally more crying babies than adults. Because the one thing everybody loves on a plane is a baby.

Location: Song Gao Road, #12, 4th Floor– Shin Kong Mitsukoshi, Taipei City

Phone: (02)2722-6380

Modern Toilet Restaurant

What’s more appetizing than swirls of chocolate ice cream in a cone? Why swirls of chocolate ice cream in a toilet, of course! Modern Toilet is, as the name suggests, all about the bathroom devices. Seats are designed as toilets, tables as sinks, showerheads decorate the walls and all food comes served in a miniature toilet bowl. Naturally the owner says he had the innovative idea while taking his own dump on a porcelain throne and reading about a Japanese cartoon character that swirled his poop on a stick. Somehow the gross idea took hold with several chains now across Asia. If you really feel like eating your food out of a toilet bowl and chugging beverages from a urinal, this is the place for you.

Location: 2F., No.7, Lane 50, Sining S. Rd., Wanhua District, Taipei City

Phone: 02-2311-8822

Ninja Restaurant

If you want to get value for your money and actually savor the food you’re eating, then the Ninja restaurant is our recommendation. We found this place to be about the food first and the theme second. Expect Japanese cuisine, with yummy selections like sashimi, sushi, barbecue, and salads. Of course, draft beer served in paper lanterns also made an appearance. We were quite pleased with the prices, the service, and the flavors, especially when compared to the other themed restaurants.

However, there are a couple things about the Ninja restaurant to keep in mind. For one, it was previously a hospital themed eatery, and the remnants are still obvious. At one point a ninja waitress who wanted to ‘play a game’ approached us. Roll the dice; guess if your number is higher or lower than your competitor. If you win, liquid from a ‘good’ syringe is dispensed into your mouth. If you lose, unluckily you get the bad one. What syringes have to do with ninjas I don’t know. Also, be aware that the ninja-gals put on a bit of a dance in the middle of dinner. Again, I don’t know what booty-bumping with people trying to eat has to do with Japanese ninjas, but just let them know in advance if you would like to participate in the half-time show or not. And be prepared, there is ice involved.

Maybe we just prefer ninjas to princesses. Regardless, this was our favorite establishment.

Secret Entrance Ninja Theme Restaurants Taipei

The secret ninja door that leads upstairs. I would tell you the password but…. you know.

Location: No. 129, Section 4, ShiMin Blvd, Songshan District, Taipei City

Phone: 02-2577-3300

Taipei’s many theme restaurants probably won’t offer your taste buds much to think twice about. It’s okay though, because they’re not really about the food; rather, these restaurants provide whimsical, offbeat establishments that aim to delight all the senses. One things for certain: Taipei’s theme restaurants provide a unique Taiwanese experience that leaves you with a greater understanding of all the word ‘cute’ can really mean. And come on, where else can you laugh about your poop-shaped food anyway?

Have you been to any outrageous restaurants? Which one above sounds most appealing?

Photo Friday | The Bird is the Word | Tainan, Taiwan

May 032013

This little bird might not be phased by the H7N9 scare, but he does seem to be contemplating something. Perhaps what it’s like to fly? I took this photo while we were getting lost in Tainan last weekend. Casey particularly loves it because of the vivid colors, so it wins the bid for this week’s Photo Friday.

What do you think is going on in that bird brain? Bonus points if you can tell me what kind of bird it is–any chance it’s a bird of paradise? ;-P

Tainan Walking Tour: Retracing Taiwan’s Oldest Streets

May 012013

Our first visit to Tainan was almost exactly a year ago. We didn’t plan to make exploring the historic streets of Tainan an annual event, but Andrea Bocelli happened to be performing there this past weekend. And because my husband is ahhh-mazing, he surprised me with concert tickets to see the Italian opera singer I’ve been slightly and quite randomly obsessed with since we came to Taiwan. A pretty good birthday present if I do say so myself. I know not everyone is on the Andrea Bocelli bandwagon, but I get goose bumps every time he belts out in that rich, velvety tenor voice of his. And I couldn’t have been more delighted by the concert, even if we had to don ponchos to combat the light drizzle permeating the outdoor venue. Good thing I wore those heels…

Tainan is probably one of my favorite cities in Taiwan. I know, I know. If you’ve ever read our blog before, chances are you’ve heard me claim ‘such and such’ to be my favorite spot for something or other. But there really is a special feeling about Tainan. Perhaps it’s because, as the oldest city on the island, Tainan emanates history and tradition. In the exposed redbrick walls that tell tales of Dutch colonialism at Fort Anping; in the ancient temples and shrines that have remained authentic in the face of modernization; in the delicious street foods that tell stories from centuries past—each strand comes together to weave the tapestry that is Tainan, both past and present.

Tainan is easily walked, although it might leave you sweating a bit during the hot summer months. Regardless, there’s no denying that walking is the best way to stumble upon the numerous temples and historical remnants that decorate the alleyways. To help you along, here’s our guide to strolling past Tainan’s best attractions:

Walking Guide: Tainan

Chihkan Towers (Fort Provintia)

The Dutch first laid the foundation to this old fort in 1653, although today most of the features have been reconstructed. Kindly enough, the local people no longer call it the Tower of Red-Haired Barbarians, which was so eloquently used to describe it during Dutch occupation. The grounds to the Chihkan Tower are picturesque, and at night the entire premises lights up, providing an ideal backdrop for concerts and music performances. Entrance to the Chihkan Towers is 50NT per person, 8:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.

Sacrificial Rites Martial Temple

Just across the street from the Chickan Towers, this temple is said to be one of the oldest and best-preserved temples in Taiwan. The God of War, Guandi, is at the center of the Sacrifical Rites Martial Temple, and government officials and businessmen have been flocking to pay him alms since the 1600s.

Confucius Temple

Built in the late 1600s, the Confucius Temple was the epicenter of culture and education in Taiwan, and regarded as the highest institute of learning at the time. The grounds are lovely, with elegant banyan trees providing shade for those practicing tai chi (or just observing from the comfort of their bench on the sidelines).

bench observer

*Note: Alongside the Confucius Temple you can find the highly popular Lily Fruits Stand serving up Cua Bing, or shaved ice. If you’re willing to wait (which we weren’t), you can have fresh fruit, peanuts, beans, and condensed milk mounted upon a heaping of shaved ice.

Fuzhong Street

Across from the Confucius Temple and through the stone archway is the charming Fuzhong Street. A hub for artists and coffee shops, this is the perfect tree-lined avenue to stroll down while taking a breather from all the temples. It’s quite unique for Taiwan, and reminds me more of the outdoor markets so common in Europe.

Old Fort at Anping (Fort Zeelandia)

Another remnant from the Dutch, this fortress provided the Dutch East India Company with an ideal port and sea-defense location in Taiwan. Unfortunately for the Dutch, their small army didn’t last long against the Chinese forces rallied behind Koxinga, and they surrendered in 1662. Since then not too much has been happening at the Old Fort, although it is still a nice place to wander around while learning a bit about Taiwan’s history.

Anping Old Streets

My favorite part about the Old Fort area is the surrounding historical streets. Exposed, crumbling redbrick guides the way, and it’s easy to get lost here retracing the footpaths of the early Dutch settlers. The key is to get off of the vendor-lined Yanping Street and onto the quiet side roads that beckon to be explored.

While you’re burning all those calories from walking about, be sure to recharge with a few of the ‘xiaochi’, or small snacks, Tainan is famous for.

Danzi Noodles

Danzi noodles consist of a sweet and tangy noodle soup, complete with minced pork and a single shrimp. We chose to try the famous dish at the Chihkan Peddler’s Noodles Shop, where the nostalgic décor and historic building make up for the fact that the store has only been operating since 2002. It takes an entire day to adequately prepare the minced pork, but the hard work certainly pays off. These noodles are delectable, and offer a uniquely sweet flavor when compared to other noodle soup dishes readily available in Taiwan.

Coffin Bread (Guancai Ban)

Don’t be turned off by the appearance of this dish—it actually tastes quite similar to chicken potpie. Originally a dish of Chinese peasants, this poor man’s food consisted of chicken liver, mixed with vegetables to create chowder that could then be poured into the remnants of stale bread (resembling a stone coffin). Today your chances of finding liver coffin bread are slim to none; chicken, seafood, and pork are the newer, tourist-friendly versions offered up by street vendors.

Oyster Omelete

You’ll find this dish all over Taiwan; however, it is said to have originated in Tainan. Egg batter is mixed with small oysters, green onions and potato starch to produce a thick, chewy omelet. Not our favorite dish, but worth a try.

Whether you’re seeking political history, spiritual reverence, or great chows, Tainan has something to offer visitors in a distinctly authentic way. We have put together our own personalized Tainan walking tour that hits the highlights. Plus, if you’re really lucky, you can time your visit with Burning Boat Festival and watch a 40-meter boat set alight by explosives. Totally awesome.

Have you been to Tainan? Any insider tips to add? Let’s hear them below!

Get it Straight: Fact and Fiction of Taiwan

Apr 232013

We’ve been living in Taiwan for nearly two years now. And in that time, we’ve started to notice some trends in terms of what people assume Taiwan is like. Sometimes people are spot on. Other times, they’re just a little bit off the map. Literally. So we’ve decided to clear the air once and for all, banishing a few misconceptions while also reaffirming a few of the stereotypes. While we felt we could have added a few more things to the list, we tried to rely most heavily on the presumptions we hear from people who haven’t yet made it to Taiwan. Accordingly, here you are—facts and fiction about life in Taiwan.

Let’s start with The Misconceptions:

1. Taiwan is not Thailand

You would think this would be a bit obvious. But I guess it’s not. We’ve actually lost count of how many times we’ve had the following conversation:

Random person we just met: Where do you live? Oh cool! That must be so much fun. I just love Thai food. Do you eat it, like, all the time?

Dan or I trying to be polite: Um…yea…there are a couple of Thai restaurants. They’re pretty good. But we try to eat more local Taiwanese food…

Random person we just met: Wait, where do you live? Not Thailand? Oh, Taiwan. Where is Taiwan again?

“I love Thai food” is literally the number one statement we get after we tell people we live in Taiwan. Not to judge, because the number one Google search for Taiwan is ‘Where is Taiwan?’, so I guess there are a lot of confused souls out there.

To clarify, here is a map of Taiwan:

2. The official language is Mandarin

We’re often asked how our Taiwanese is coming along. Well, we haven’t really focused on it, because since World War II Mandarin has been the official language of Taiwan. Until the 1980’s speaking and learning Taiwanese was actually discouraged. There’s been a bit of revival in Taiwanese since those times, but Mandarin is still very much the language you’ll see and hear in Taiwan. A lot of scholars actually choose to come to Taiwan over Mainland China for the pure fact that Taiwan still uses traditional Mandarin characters (rather than Mainland China’s simplified version). But please don’t ask us how our Mandarin is coming either, because that answer is a bit embarrassing…

3. We don’t live in an iconic tropical getaway

Perhaps this fits along with the whole Thailand thing. While we do live close to the equator, Taiwan is in East Asia, not really Southeast Asia (like Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam..) While there are some really beautiful beaches in the south of Taiwan, there are also some really not-so-beautiful beaches. And it gets cold here. (Even our friends from South Dakota vouch for us on this one.) I’m still wearing a jacket and we’re nearing the end of April. We love Taiwan, but it’s not exactly the computer screensaver version of paradise you might have in mind.

4. We don’t eat eggrolls or fortune cookies

Maybe you already knew that fortune cookies are an extremely American product, but did you know that egg rolls are too? Savory and crispy, deep-fried rolls-filled with egg, pork, and cabbage-are a staple of American Chinese cuisine. But they are nonexistent in Taiwan. While we do have ‘egg rolls’, they are more of a cookie or biscuit, made from eggs, flour, and sugar. I was extremely disappointed about this because I love me some American-style egg rolls, even if the calorie count is probably mind-blowing.

5. We’re not on holiday

Taiwanese people work extremely hard. It’s not uncommon for them to put in twelve-hour days, five or even six days a week. And the kids? They spend all day in school, all night honing in on their math, English, music, art, tae-kwon-do…the list goes on and on. Even if we don’t labor away quite to the same extent as our Taiwanese counterparts, we’re still actually working over here. A lot. And while we are able to explore on the weekends and occasionally travel around Asia, we’re not just in Taiwan on a prolonged vacation.

Now for the stuff that’s Spot On:

1. There are lots of bad drivers in Asia

We don’t want to be totally stereotypical or offensive, but it’s sorta true. Compared to a Western point of view, Taiwanese are bad drivers. It’s totally normal in Taiwan to straddle the middle line while driving ridiculously slowly in your decked-out Honda Civic. And if someone is turning left, they won’t look into the immediate lane to see if there is any traffic coming. No, no, no—as long as the far lane is clear, they’re taking that turn. But there is a method to the madness, and once you understand how it works, it kinda makes sense. I guess. I’m sure that Taiwanese people think all the foreigners are really the bad drivers, and I wouldn’t dare to contest with this.

2. People eat a lot of rice and noodles

Rice and noodles are two staples in Taiwanese cuisine, present at nearly every meal. Often the question won’t be “What do you want to eat?” but rather “Rice or noodles?” I love my carbs too much to ever question this methodology.

3. Coffee is really popular

Before we came to Taiwan, I was reading an outdated article where the author contended coffee would never be successful in Taiwan; tea was an authentic part of Taiwanese culture, and there was just no way that coffee could compete with that. I feel bad for whoever that author was, because boy was he wrong. Coffee holds a huge presence in Taiwan—one that looks to be growing more and more popular by the minute. Not to say that it has replaced tea by any means, just that coffee certainly holds its own. Almost any Starbucks you pass will have a line out the door on any given day. Independent, artsy coffee shops seem to be popping up everywhere. And if that doesn’t convince you, I actually have to make a reservation if I want a table at my favorite coffee shop in Hsinchu. That’s Hsinchu, people—not Taipei or Kaohsiung or any of the ‘major’ cities in Taiwan, but Hsinchu. At a coffee shop. For real.

4. Cute is SO in

It really is all about the cuteness in Taiwan. Never mind the fact that you’re 80 years old—go ahead and throw on that bedazzled Hello Kitty t-shirt. Should you decorate your restaurant with oversized stuffed animals? Why of course. What about a flashing heart light on the back of your scooter? Yep. Even if you’re a dude? Double yep. The cute factor really plays into most aspects of life in Taiwan. At first it drove me a little bit nuts. Then I stopped noticing. Now I find myself secretly eyeing those very same Hello Kitty t-shirts myself…

5. Taiwan is one crowded place

Taiwan is one of the most densely populated countries in the world. So yea, it’s crowded. If you’re traveling anywhere over a holiday, you better book those hotels way in advance. That goes for the train too. There’s no chance you’re getting a seat if you just show up at the train station expecting to hop on the next carrier that pulls up. We won’t even mention Taipei’s night markets, because that’s like a claustrophic’s worst nightmare. I’m still doing my best to cope with hoards of people everywhere. Luckily there’s a pretty easy solution: get out of the cities. There are still loads of places in Taiwan that remain unscathed from urbanization and development. Often just a quick scooter ride will bring you out of the pollution and into stunning landscapes, with plenty of elbow room all around.

So what do you think? Did we change any of your misconceptions about Taiwan? Is there anything you would add to the list? As always, we encourage comments below!

Wandering the Nostalgic Streets of Jiufen

Apr 172013

There are lots of beautiful places in Taiwan. But more often than not, if a tour bus can access it, there will be oodles of people there. It’s inevitable. And although it still drives me crazy when I’m being elbowed incessantly while trying to get my Lantern Festival on, or being pushed around while snapping pictures at a 3D art exhibit, it doesn’t bother me nearly as much as it used to. Well, that is until we buy our train tickets ten days early and STILL don’t get a seat because it’s a ‘national holiday’. I swear there is some sort of anti-foreigner train seat rule.

3D art

Often the constant hordes of people can take a bit out of a place. What might have been a charming and delightful gem becomes just another tourist trap with over-priced, over-rated food. Luckily, there are still a few places we’ve found that have managed to retain their authenticity. One of them is Jiufen.

Old Street, Jiufen, Taiwan

Jiufen is a small village on the Northeast coast of Taiwan, with commanding views of the Pacific Ocean and surrounding mountains. The name ‘Jiufen’ directly translates into ‘nine portions’, and is said to originate from the nine families that first made up the town and would always order nine portions of supplies. However, Jiufen wasn’t diminutive for long; when someone struck gold in the late 1800s, it quickly developed into a gold mining town, along with nearby Jinguashi.

The gold mining has long disappeared and in its place left an enchanting, mystical town. Small, stone alleyways zigzag up and down the mountain, beckoning you to leave the main thoroughfares behind. Traditional red Chinese lanterns line the streets, invoking the feeling that you have stepped back in time. And on a beautiful day, stunning views of the Northeast Coast stretch out all around you.

Jiufen, Taiwan

Not exactly a beautiful day.

Most of the action—or at least what draws the weekenders from Taipei—is on Jiufen Old Street. Food stalls serving up taro balls, dumplings, and mochi (gelatinous deserts) crowd the perimeter, contesting with numerous souvenir and art shops for customers. Of particular note, there is an awesome hole-in-the-wall that sells hand-painted scrolls for exceptional value. However, other than that, we prefer to leave the Old Street behind in search for quieter, more relaxed meandering of the small town roads.

In addition to the aimless wandering and nostalgic atmosphere, there are also numerous traditional teahouses, which I absolutely adore. The two most popular ones are the Jiufen Tea House and the Ah Mei Tea House. The Jiufen Tea House is decorated exquisitely, with traditional Chinese décor, oil paintings, and an art gallery with large selection of ceramic teapots. The Ah Mei Tea House is just as lovely as the Jiufen Tea House, but in a more laid-back way. It is famed for being the inspiration behind Hayao Miyazaki’s movie Spirited Away, which I guess is a pretty popular animated film in Asia. We ended up choosing the latter venue, as it was the first teahouse we stumbled upon.

Tea House, Jiufen, Taiwan

Dan and I aren’t tea snobs by any means. In fact, we always have to ask the waitress numerous times to help us sort the gadgets and gizmos laid out before us, meant to assist in the tea drinking process. But regardless of our incompetence, we thoroughly enjoy the traditional process of drinking Chinese tea. The Ah Mei Tea House specializes in Oolong tea, so naturally that’s what we chose. Although we aren’t enough of an expertise to comment on the value of the tea, it tasted top-notch to us, and was certainly priced accordingly.

I just saw the bill.

Drinking Chinese tea is a slow, thoughtful, and social experience. Before one can even think about tasting the delicate leaves, the cups must be doused with warm water; the leaves must be briefly rinsed and soaked; the aroma must be wafted from the smelling cup. And then, finally, after the proper etiquette ahs been displayed and anticipation built up, the doll-sized teacups can deliver the long awaited reward.

Tea leaves before (left) and after.

TEA TIME!

This process is repeated again and again, although the initial few steps can be left out after the sipping and savoring has begun. Often it takes hours to finish a batch of tea, although this isn’t a hard thing when relaxing and enjoying the commanding view Jiufen offers. Alternatively, most teahouses will package your remaining tealeaves in adorable doggy bags to go.

Jiufen just emanates of history and tradition. Of a time before apartment buildings rose higher and department stores expanded wider. It’s the reason why so many locals flock there on the weekend. It’s why numerous movies have found inspiration from its winding streets. And it’s why I can tolerate sharing a bit of my highly revered elbow space.

13 Amazing Things You Can Do at a 7-Eleven

Apr 152013

Before we came to Taiwan, I couldn’t even remember the last time I had seen a 7-Eleven. Even if I had grown up with a 7-Eleven around the corner, I don’t think I would have thought twice about it. Unless I happened to be craving a Slurpee.

But now, I have about thirty-five 7-Elevens around the corner. You might think I’m exaggerating, and…well, I am. But only slightly. 7-Elevens are seriously everywhere in Taiwan, with nearly 5,000 stores in a country the size of North Carolina. That ranks Taiwan as having one of the highest densities of 7-Elevens in the world.

Not only are 7-Elevens convenient for their location, but also for the fact that you can do almost anything there. Don’t believe me? Read on.

13 Amazing Things You Never Knew You Could Do at a 7-Eleven

1. Get your dry cleaning done

Haven’t tried this one firsthand yet, but for around US$3 you can drop off your dry cleaning at 7-Eleven and they’ll take care of it for you.

2. Pay bills and tickets

Electricity. Water. Insurance. Pesky speeding tickets from when your motorcycle was caught on camera. Just take ‘em in, scan the barcode, and pay up.

3. Call a taxi

Once we saw a family of foreigners walking in the middle of a busy Taipei intersection, beer cans in hand, frantically waving their arms above their heads, all the while screaming for a taxi. I was embarrassed for them. No need to act like you’re in the middle of a crisis—next time you need a lift just ask the attendant at the nearest 7-Eleven to call one for you.

4. Recharge your cell phone minutes

Most cell phones in Taiwan are pay-as-you-go. Which means, inevitably, I’m quite bad about keeping my cell stocked up with minutes. (Even if it takes about five seconds to purchase more, and my friends at the 7-Eleven will do all the work for me.) Oh well.

5. Renew your driver’s license

If you’re a foreigner, your license expires annually. We didn’t realize this, so when Dan tried to rent a scooter in Taitung, we were quite surprised to be rejected because the expiration date had passed. Our Taiwanese friend just told us he could renew it at the 7—now we just need to give it a try. Anyone have experience with this one?

6. Send packages

You can only send them from 7-Eleven to 7-Eleven, but it still beats the lines at the post office. Not to mention 7-Elevens probably dominate post offices by, like, twenty-to-one.

7. Buy tickets to shows and games

There’s an ATM-like machine in every 7-Eleven store. It’s called the ibon. This is your source for any kind of ‘ticket’ you need. We knew this before, but then forgot, and went all the way to Taipei to purchase Cirque du Soleil tickets last year. (We couldn’t navigate the Chinese website…) It was a bit embarrassing when we arrived at the venue and they just pointed us to the adjacent 7-Eleven to purchase the tickets.

8. Buy meals, beverages, clothing, stationary…

This ones a bit obvious, but of course it had to be on the list. Snacks, full on meals, coffee, and alcohol can all be found. As well as about fifty different kinds of tea. And fresh produce. And underwear. Depending on the store, the selection can be quite encompassing.

9. Have said meals prepared for you

Not only can you buy meals, whoever is working will microwave and prepare them for you. Unfortunately we still don’t have a microwave (something we probably should have bought right away) and we’ve actually brought in Thanksgiving leftovers for them to microwave for us. I don’t know if this is normally frowned upon or not, but the staff sure got a laugh out of it.

10. Redeem Taiwan Receipt Lottery winnings

On every receipt in Taiwan there is a number. And every two months, a select few of those numbers are chosen as the lottery winners. Earnings can range from NT$200 to NT$10 million. As long as you’re only slightly lucky and the winning is NT$200 (which is the most we’ve ever one) the 7-Eleven will redeem it for you.

11. Use Wi-Fi

There’s free Wi-Fi, but you do have to sign up for it.

12. Use an ATM (which can also wire money)

This is also a staple of most convenient stores, but the ATMs here are especially handy. Not only can you withdraw money, you can use them to send money to other bank accounts. Most hotels require you to wire a small deposit in order to hold your reservation, so you might actually find yourself using this feature more often than you would expect.

13. Print, fax, and copy

I don’t really have anything to say about this one. Pretty explanatory I guess?

On top of all that, there’s an awesome sticker reward system. With any purchase, you get a bunch of really annoying small stickers that seem to pop up absolutely everywhere around your apartment. In return for organizing them in your sticker book, you can redeem the stickers for super adorable Hello Kitty trinkets and other ‘cute’ collectibles. Or ice cream, which is what Dan tends to hoard them for.

Pretty amazing, right? And I still bet we missed a whole bunch of great things 7-Elevens can do. By all means, if you can add to our list, please do.

What do you use 7-Elevens for?

Photo Friday | Dumplings | Authentic Taiwanese Cuisine

Apr 122013

Dumplings are a staple of Taiwanese cuisine, and have therefore become an essential element of our diet. Ranging from fried pork to boiled vegetable, there is something for everyone. The best are homemade and hand-rolled. This restaurant we frequent about once a week is a family-run noodle shop where they do just that. If you live in Hsinchu, don’t miss this small establishment on the corner of Zhongzheng and Wuling. (Their beef noodles with homemade, hand-scooped noodles are to die for.)

How to Change a Flat Tire: A Lesson in Generosity

Apr 112013

How do you fix a flat tire in Taiwan?

20 really friendly Taiwanese people, 5 smart phones, 1 awesome blue truck driving us around for free, and we still don’t have the answer.

If you happen to be a fan of our facebook page, (which you totally should be, btw ;-p) then you might have seen this status pop-up on your news feed. We’ve had a lot of questions about the details, so without further ado, here is the ridiculousness behind my broken bicycle’s flat tire.

Our first day of cycling from Hualien to Taitung began fabulously. Although rain was plaguing the rest of Taiwan, we managed to find a pocket of sunshine on the East Coast, which only amped up our spirits more. DIY cliff bars and emergency rain ponchos in store, no hills could slow us down; no worries could weigh us down. Or so we thought.

Then there was this whole matter of lunch. And somewhere between parking our bicycles and carbo-loading on fried rice, cycling got a lot more difficult. At first I thought the struggle was most likely a derivative of stuffing my face with about 10,000 calories of oily carbohydrates. But after a few moments of feeling like I was riding over cobblestone and carrying a ton of bricks, I realized that my bike tire was as flat as a pancake. Like, so flat that the outer tire was actually flopping out of the metal tire frame. Don’t judge me for the fact I didn’t notice immediately; if you don’t remember, bikes and I are still just getting acquainted.

So I have a flat tire. Not that big of a deal, right? Well, for starters, we didn’t have a tire patch kit. No matter, we thought. We’ll just try to pump it up anyway! Kudos to Dan who got down on his hands and knees, two bike toolkits in hand, and somehow managed to stuff the outer tire back into the frame and inflate it. I, along with twenty roadside-dwelling monkeys, acted as the spectators cheering him on.

And then we were off! Joyfully coasting along with wind-blown hair, riding into the sunset as adorable monkeys scampered after us fist pumping and giving high fives. NOT. It looked a little more like this: The monkeys were long-gone from the boredom of watching Dan struggle, and of course, all the air immediately hissed out of the quasi-salvaged tire at the first notion of butt-to-seat contact.

So there we were, literally stranded miles away from anything more than…well…anything. The sun was now cut off by clouds, rain threatened, we had run out of ideas. The flat tire was so out of shape that the inner tube was flopping out and catching on the brake, making it impossible to even walk the bike for more than a few steps.

This is the part of the story where the focus shifts from us being hopelessly stranded to the fact that Taiwanese people are amazingly generous. It’s something we’re constantly reminded of, but this experience really crystallized it for us.

Back to us looking like helpless foreigners on the road. With the first SUV that passed by, Dan and I were waving our arms in the air like madmen—and wouldn’t you know, they stopped. The passengers were a young woman and her sweet niece who were also vacationing on the East Coast. After about ten minutes of broken dialogue explaining our situation, they quickly took it upon themselves to help us get to Ruisui and the nearest Giant repair shop. It took about five phone calls with the local taxi hubs to figure out that no taxis go to where we were stuck. The woman insisted on loading my dirty, muddy bike, and me, into her immaculate and probably brand new vehicle. Dan followed behind, and it wasn’t long before we arrived at the next ‘town’—a term I’m using extremely loosely.

At this ‘town’, which consisted of about five mom-and-pop noodle shops, there were also no taxis, no convenient stores, no anything, aside from more carbs. Two fellow bikers passed by, and although they also tried to help us with their spare tire, it just didn’t do the trick. An hour later, we knew dusk would be approaching soon. The only obvious answer was to flag down a blue truck. If you’re not familiar with blue trucks, they are the ominous sharks of the road in Taiwan. Reckless, beetle-nut chewing drivers are the stereotype, and it is typically best to keep your scootering-self away from their blind fury. That is, until you need to transport two bicycles. Then those blue trucks become your best friend.

We were lucky to be picked up off the road yet again, continuing our quest. Dan piled into the back of the pickup truck, and I took up camp in the front. Our new friend swore he could take us to a bike shop in another small town where he lived, about 30 minutes past Ruishui. We agreed, primarily because it seemed he couldn’t get the truck up the small road that would quickly bring us to our sleeping abode and Giant store. And while he did manage to efficiently bring us to a bike repair shop, the owner was away for at least two days. Of course.

If there’s one thing two stranded foreigners does, it’s create a crowd. Although we still had a flat tire and were essentially left high and dry, we now had a posse of about 10 Taiwanese people invested in helping us. Phone calls were made to God knows where. Most of the chit chat revolved around how two ‘white people’ had been picked up off the side of the road. And then finally, the solution that we had been trying to suggest presented itself: why not drive them to their hotel in Ruishui, where the bike repair shop is located? I guess the main problem with this was getting the blue truck up the steep side roads, but somehow a map was programmed and we set off on two hours of driving through the mountains, in a circle, to bring us back toward Ruishui.

Ahhhh. We were so thankful that literally twenty people had now been involved in helping us; we just didn’t understand why it took so long to solve a seemingly simple problem. One of the issues with not speaking Chinese like we should after nearly two years of living here.

Anyway, we assumed the worse was over with. We made it, and at 9 o’clock sharp we could rock up to the bike store, change the flat tire, and be on our way. Of course, in between then, another five people in Ruisui insisted on trying to fix the flat tire, despite our incessant replies that it really wasn’t necessary. But boy were we wrong about our problems being over. We did change the flat tire, and we did get on our way. But after about ten minutes of biking and twenty more photo ops, I changed gears, and the back tire simultaneously popped again. I have no idea if there was actually a connection between the two, but I didn’t really care. We were left with a broken bike, again, for the second time in twelve hours! Luckily we were closer to civilization this time, and it wasn’t long before I requested a new bike and we were actually continuing our ride for good, albeit a few hours later than originally planned.

I was annoyed, yes. But I was also grateful that so many people were there to help us. Everyone who passed by and saw what was going on felt personably responsible for solving our predicament. For free. Without us asking them. We were in that blue truck for probably close to three hours, not including the time it must have taken the driver to get back home, yet our friend refused to take any money from us. Not even for gas, let alone his time. If I ever try to explain why I love Taiwan so much, it always comes back to moments like this: jaw-dropping demonstrations of kindness, with no expectations in return. I’ve definitely learned something from the Taiwanese on what it means to be a good host, to be gracious, and to put others above personal convenience. And for that, I’m extremely thankful, even if it means arriving later than expected.